Altitude acclimatization: tips for safe mountaineering

The fascination of the mountains attracts thousands of mountaineers to high altitudes every year. However, the ascent to these regions also harbours risks: The first symptoms of altitude sickness can occur from as low as 2500 metres. To reach the summit safely and in good health, good altitude acclimatisation is essential. In this detailed article, you can find out everything you need to know about adapting correctly to the altitude and how you can avoid altitude sickness.

Why is altitude acclimatisation so important?

With increasing altitude, the air pressure and thus the oxygen content in the air decreases exponentially. Our body first has to adapt to these changed conditions. Statistics show this: Around 10% of all mountaineers develop symptoms of altitude sickness at altitudes of 2500 metres and above. At altitudes of around 4000 metres, 50% of mountaineers are already struggling with symptoms.

Contrary to popular belief, susceptibility to altitude sickness does not primarily depend on physical fitness. Rather, genetic factors, the speed of ascent and the absolute altitude play the decisive role.

Recognising symptoms of altitude sickness

Acute mountain sickness (AMS)

The most common form of altitude sickness is characterised by the following symptoms:

• Headache (main symptom) – especially at night and in the morning
• Sleep disturbances up to complete insomnia
• Loss of appetite and nausea
• Weakness and reduced performance
• Dizziness and loss of balance
• Mood swings and listlessness

These symptoms typically develop 4-12 hours after reaching the critical altitude. With the right reaction and appropriate adaptation time, they usually disappear within 2-3 days.

Dangerous complications

If the warning signs are ignored, two life-threatening complications can develop:

High altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE)

• Extreme drop in performance
• Rattling, later also bloody cough
• Tightness in the chest
• Fever
• Occurs more frequently in the Western Alps

High altitude cerebral oedema (HACE)

• Severe balance disorders
• Extreme loss of consciousness
• Often fatal without rapid treatment
• Very rare in the Alps

The right altitude acclimatisation: prevention is the key

Basic rules for safe height adjustment

1. Slow ascent

• Maximum 300-400 metres altitude per day for sleeping altitude
• Be particularly careful above 3000 metres
• Reduce the ascent speed significantly

2. The right sleeping height

• Observe the ‘Go high, sleep low’ principle
• Keep your sleeping height below the maximum daytime height
• Sleep with an elevated upper body

3. Sufficient fluids

• Drink an additional litre for every 1000 metres of altitude
• At 3000-4000 metres at least 3-5 litres a day
• Regular small amounts throughout the day

4. Correct load

• Only aerobic exercise during the acclimatisation phase
• Conversation during the ascent should be possible
• Take regular breaks

5. Apply hypoxia tent before travelling

A trend that is very much on the rise: the use of a hypoxia tent before an expedition or high-altitude tour. A hypoxia tent is a special tent or chamber that creates an oxygen-reduced environment to simulate altitude conditions. Sleeping in a hypoxia tent is one of the most common uses, as the body can react particularly well to the reduced oxygen levels during sleep.

Our philosophy: Safety through optimised tour planning

As a professional mountain school and tour operator, the safety of our guests is our top priority. Our tours are planned according to scientific findings and years of experience in such a way that optimum altitude acclimatisation is guaranteed. This means

• Sufficient acclimatisation days before reaching high altitudes
• Carefully selected stage destinations with adapted sleeping altitudes
• Flexible tour planning that allows individual adaptation
• Experienced mountain guides who recognise symptoms at an early stage
• Emergency plans and descent options for each section of the tour

What to do in case of altitude sickness?

For mild symptoms:

• Stop the ascent
• Take a rest day
• Drink enough
• For headaches: Ibuprofen can help

For severe symptoms:

• Immediate descent of at least 500-1000 metres in altitude
• Oxygen administration if available
• No medication to suppress symptoms
• Seek professional medical help

Acute mountain sickness in the Alps – frequency and prevention

Scientific studies in the Swiss Alps have collected detailed data on the incidence of acute mountain sickness (AMS) at different altitudes. The studies show a clear correlation between altitude and the occurrence of symptoms:

The frequency increases significantly with increasing altitude:

• Konkordia hut (2850 m): 9% of visitors affected
• Finsteraarhornhütte (3050 m): 13% affected, evacuation rate 1:4000
• Mönchsjochhütte (3650 m): 34% affected
• Margherita hut (4559 m): 53% affected, evacuation rate 1:588

In the case of high-altitude oedema requiring evacuation, around a third of those affected recover immediately after reaching lower altitudes. The remaining patients recover within a few days.

Preventive measures and treatment

Successful altitude acclimatisation is based on the following basic principles:

Gradual acclimatisation is crucial. Avoid overnight stays above 3000 m at the start of the tour. During the acclimatisation phase, you should not overtax yourself physically.

Make sure you have an adequate supply of food and fluids. Consciously deepening your breathing at 3000-3500 m can be particularly helpful in the first two days and at the first signs of a headache.

Interestingly, symptoms of altitude sickness only develop after about four hours. Therefore, short ascents, especially in the Alps, such as high tours to the Allalinhorn or Breithorn, are often possible even without full acclimatisation.

If you are known to be sensitive to high altitudes, medication can be considered after consulting a doctor. Ibuprofen (600 mg every 8 hours) can help if symptoms occur. Important: Do not ascend any further and start descending if there is no improvement within 1-2 days.

Conclusion

Good altitude acclimatisation is the key to safe and successful mountaineering at high altitudes. By following the basic rules and recognising warning signs early on, most cases of altitude sickness can be avoided.

It is particularly important not to ignore symptoms out of false ambition – the mountain does not run away and can be climbed on another day!

Do you need more information to plan your next high-altitude trip?

This is where we at Exped Tribe come into play!
Give us a call or send us your requirements via the contact form and we will get in touch with you as soon as possible. We can discuss your wishes and needs immediately. So nothing stands in the way of a safe expedition trip at altitude!

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