ILLINIZA, COTOPAXI AND CHIMBORAZO ASCENT

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Trip typep: High altitude mountaineering
Duration: 14 days
Altitude: 5126 m, 5897 m and 6263 m
Country/Region: Ecuador, Quito
Price: from 4.395.- CHF/p. P.
Participants: 4-6
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Experience the ultimate high-altitude mountaineering trip in Ecuador, climbing the majestic volcanoes Illiniza (5126 m) Cotopaxi (5897 m) and Chimborazo (6263 m).

Starting from the historic capital Quito (2850 m), this spectacular 14-day expedition takes us to the highest peaks of Ecuador, amidst an exciting indigenous culture and countless active volcanoes.

Requirements:

Chimborazo Besteigung

Ascent

Schwierigkeit 3 5 1

Very exhausting

Wild camping

Schwierigkeit 5 5 2 1

Experience necessary

Adaptability

Schwierigkeit 5 5 2 1

Necessary. Adventurers are needed here!

Fitness

Schwierigkeit 3 5 1

Very exhausting

Cotopaxi and Chimborazo ascent: Your ultimate mountaineering expedition in Ecuador

Start your greatest mountain adventure in Ecuador by climbing the majestic volcanoes Illiniza, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Cotopaxi, with its perfectly conical shape and a height of 5,897 metres, is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world and impresses with its permanent ice cap, which stretches over 1,500 metres in altitude. Its last major eruption occurred in 2015 and you can still see sulphur vapours rising from the crater at the summit. Our journey begins in the historic UNESCO World Heritage city of Quito at 2850 m, where we can acclimatise perfectly in the ‘City of Eternal Spring’. With hikes such as the one to Rucu Pichincha (4696 m), we prepare ourselves perfectly for the challenges ahead.

After two days of acclimatisation, a transfer takes us to Cotopaxi National Park, where our technically moderate ascent over glaciers to the symmetrical volcanic cone of Cotopaxi begins at midnight from Refugio José Rivas (4864 m).

Then we continue with part 2 of the journey: Chimborazo, with its imposing 6263 m, is not only Ecuador’s highest mountain, but also the furthest point on earth from the centre of the earth. A crowning finale to the journey awaits us. Its massive structure is crowned by four peaks and its glaciers extend down to 4600 metres – an important source of water for the region. From the historic Whymper Refugio, named after the first climber Edward Whymper, our challenging route leads over technical glacier passages to the highest point. The ascent requires excellent fitness and altitude experience, as the thin air and frequent strong winds present particular challenges.

On this 14-day expedition, we combine technical mountaineering with experiencing and enjoying Ecuadorian culture and one of the most spectacular volcanic landscapes in the world. Our mountain guides will ensure your safety during the realisation of this high alpine summit dream in the so-called ‘Avenue De Los Volcanes’.

Climbing Cotopaxi and Chimborazo in Ecuador together

Cotopaxi and Chimborazo are two marvellous volcanoes around Quito. As the second highest capital city in the world, Quito sits enthroned at 2850 metres in the middle of the ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’ (Avenida de los Volcanes), surrounded by majestic peaks such as Pichincha, Cotopaxi and Cayambe. The famous equator monument ‘Mitad del Mundo’ marks the city’s special position directly on the equator. This location gives Quito a unique microclimate, which has earned it the nickname ‘City of Eternal Spring’. The stable temperatures throughout the year are characterised by a fascinating daily rhythm that is often described as ‘four seasons in one day’. Are you coming on this unique expedition?

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Your benefits with Exped Tribe:

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Local and multilingual mountain guide

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Support member

who will document the trip with professional recordings and look after your well-being. You will receive drone videos, photos and much more as a souvenir of your adventure.

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Small groups

of max. 8 participants. Increased flexibility, familiar atmosphere and harmonious get-together. We do our best to ensure that all participants have an incredible adventure! We conduct expectation phone calls and pool participants who have similar expectations and abilities. We are happy to accept special requests!

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Vegetarian friendly

We offer Alpine gourmet cuisine, completely without meat/fish!

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Co2 compensation

Planting of several trees per participant. You will receive a certificate of your trees and will be able to follow their growth.

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Rental materials

Cost-effective rental materials such as sleeping bags, climbing equipment and much more are available.

Lama from Quito

Planned itinerary for the mountaineering trip in Ecuador

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Day  1

Quito, Ecuador here we come!

Travelling from Zurich or Milan by plane. We are happy to organise an alternative journey if required.

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Day 2 – 5

Our acclimatisation and first summit destinations in the Quito region

Our altitude adjustment begins in Quito, Ecuador’s fascinating capital, which stretches at an altitude of 2850 to 3100 metres. Our first exploration together takes us through the UNESCO World Heritage old town, whose colonial splendour is particularly impressive in three important squares: Plaza de la Independencia, Plaza Santo Domingo and Plaza San Francisco. These historic places are surrounded by magnificent colonial buildings, which are among the architectural jewels of the city. The perfect end to our city tour is the ascent to El Panecillo, a characteristic volcanic hill whose name means ‘the bread roll’. From here we have an impressive panoramic view of the city and, on a clear day, we can even see the snow-capped peak of Cotopaxi.

On the third day of our trip, the Rucu Pichincha is on the programme. The modern cable car first takes us to an altitude of 4,000 metres, from where we begin a spectacular six-hour hike. During the four-hour ascent and two-hour descent, we are treated to breathtaking views of the capital and the majestic Cayambe, Antisana and Cotopaxi volcanoes. Afterwards, an impressive drive along the ‘Avenida de los Volcanes’ takes us southwards, where the snow-capped peaks of Cotopaxi and the twin volcanoes Illiniza Norte and Sur dominate the horizon.

The fourth day challenges us with the ascent of El Corazón at 4700 metres. This demanding tour with 1230 metres of ascent and descent prepares us perfectly for the challenges ahead.

The highlight of our acclimatisation phase comes on the fifth day with the ascent of Illiniza Norte (5126 m). We begin the ascent in the first morning light, which is initially moderate and only becomes more technically demanding in the summit area. A short climbing passage in the second degree of difficulty leads us to the summit, where a magnificent panorama of the Andes mountain range awaits us. Cotopaxi, our next big goal, looks particularly impressive from here. After eight to nine hours of intensive mountaineering and 1250 metres of ascent and descent, we find the Huerta Sacha Lodge a perfect place to relax and reflect on our impressive experiences.

This well thought-out acclimatisation programme prepares us optimally for the challenges of the higher peaks and at the same time offers unique insights into the cultural and scenic diversity of the Ecuadorian Andes.

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Day 6-9

From the Cotopaxi summit to the hot springs of Baños

After our intensive acclimatisation days, we can relax on the sixth day and spend the day as we wish. This break is important to gather strength for our upcoming challenges.

On the seventh day, our route takes us to the fascinating Cotopaxi National Park, a protected area known for its unique páramo vegetation. On our route, we stop at one of the picturesque lagoons before reaching the car park at an altitude of 4,500 metres. From here it is only a short climb to the José Ribas hut. After a short break, we devote ourselves to the essential preparations for our summit ascent tomorrow: We sort out our equipment and take part in an important glacier training session. We spend the night in the hut’s mattress dormitory, where we are provided with full board.

The eighth day brings our highlight ascent of Cotopaxi (5897 m). Technically, the ascent is moderate under normal conditions, but the combination of length and altitude challenges our stamina. The snow-covered glacier zone begins at 5000 metres, where we find our way through various ascents equipped with ice axes and crampons. Our route leads past the striking crater structure on the right, which is visible from afar. Depending on the glacier conditions, we have to skilfully avoid crevasses before a final steep climb brings us to the spectacular crater rim. After our return to the hut and the short descent to the car park, we leave the national park. A scenic drive through the varied landscape of the Avenida de los Volcanes takes us to Baños, where we will have lunch either en route or on arrival, depending on our schedule.

In Baños de Agua Santa, the ‘baths of holy water’, a relaxed exploration tour awaits us on the ninth day. In our private vehicle, we discover the picturesque Pastaza Valley with its highlights: the impressive Rio Verde waterfall and the spectacular ‘Devil’s Pan’ (el pailon del diablo). The afternoon in this charming place of pilgrimage at the foot of the active Tungurahua volcano is at leisure. We can stroll through the lively streets, hike the surrounding area or relax in the soothing hot springs – the perfect way to round off our intensive days in the mountains.

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Day 10-13

The Chimborazo ascent – the highlight of our Ecuador trip

Our route to the majestic Chimborazo takes us via Ambato through a spectacular landscape. We follow a winding road that winds along deep gorges until we reach a vast plateau. Our vehicle takes us to the end of the track at 4800 metres, where the Carrel hut sits enthroned – our starting point for the upcoming ascent. The dormant volcanic giant Chimborazo rises before us with its five peaks and several craters – the absolute highlight of our journey. Particularly fascinating: measured from the centre of the earth, it is actually the highest mountain in the world.

In the stillness of midnight, we begin our assault on the summit. The current normal route first leads us through the ‘El Corredor’ passage to the ‘El Castillo’ formation. At around 5500 metres, we reach a broad, glaciated ridge that leads us to the Veintemilla summit at around 6300 metres. The final section to Point Whymper, the highest point at around 6330 metres, demands a challenging traverse. The progressive melting of the glacier has exacerbated the conditions: we have to reckon with bare ice and icefall, especially when crossing the ‘El Corredor’ below the glacier zone. This demanding high-altitude tour requires both alpine experience and absolute surefootedness. It takes us around 7 to 10 hours to climb from the hut to the highest point in Ecuador. The reward for our efforts: a breathtaking view, where we can see Riobamba far below us. We plan 4 to 5 hours for the descent to the hut. After successfully reaching the summit, our bus will take us back to Quito in the afternoon.

If we successfully conquer Chimborazo on the eleventh day, the twelfth day is at our disposal. Otherwise, we will use it as a reserve day for a second ascent attempt or enjoy a spontaneous supporting programme in the southern highlands. On the thirteenth day, our last journey takes us back to Quito, where we still have enough time to stroll through the streets and do our final shopping. We bring our impressive expedition to a cosy end in the capital.

This final stage of our journey combines technically challenging mountain climbing with reaching the highest point in Ecuador – a truly crowning finale to our Andean adventure.

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Last Day

See you soon in Ecuador! Return journey and buffer days

Flight home. See you soon for another adventure!

Important information about your trip to Ecuador

When is the best time to go mountaineering in Ecuador?

The best time for mountaineering in Ecuador is during the dry months from June to September and December to January. During these periods, the weather is more stable and visibility is better.

How difficult is it to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

The two highest mountains in Ecuador have different levels of difficulty:

Cotopaxi (5897 m):

  • UIAA difficulty: PD (peu difficile)
  • Technically relatively easy, but physically demanding
    Mainly
  • glacier ascent with gradients of up to 35°
  • Requires basic knowledge of glacier technique and crampons

Chimborazo (6263 m):

  • UIAA difficulty: PD+ to AD- (peu difficile plus to assez difficile)
  • Technically more demanding than Cotopaxi
  • Steeper passages up to 45°
  • Longer route with more vertical metres
  • Crevasse-rich glacier passages
    What is Quito known for?

    Quito and the surrounding region are known for many remarkable aspects:

    Historical & cultural:

    • The best preserved colonial historic centre in South America (UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978)
    • Magnificent colonial architecture with churches such as San Francisco and La Compañía
    • Important colonial art school “Escuela Quiteña”
    • Vibrant indigenous culture and traditions, particularly visible in the markets

    Geographical features:

    • Located directly on the equator (“Mitad del Mundo” – Equator Monument)
    • At 2850 metres, the second highest capital city in the world
    • Surrounded by active volcanoes such as Pichincha, Cotopaxi and Cayambe
    • Part of the “Avenue of Volcanoes” (Avenida de los Volcanes)

    Culinary highlights:

    • Traditional dishes such as locro de papa (potato soup)
    • Exotic fruit from the local fruit market
    • Excellent Ecuadorian cocoa

    Economy & Products:

    • Important centre for rose production (Ecuador is the world leader)
    • Traditional crafts such as weaving and leatherwork
    • Famous Panama hats (which actually come from Ecuador)
    • High-quality coffee cultivation in the region

    Nature experiences in the surrounding area:

    • Starting point for tours into the Andes
    • Rainforest in Mindo Cloud Forest
    • Thermal springs in Papallacta
    • Otavalo, the largest Indio market in South America

    Climate:

    • “City of eternal spring” due to its proximity to the equator
    • Stable temperatures all year round
    • Microclimate with four “daytimes” in one day
    Included

    You will receive all information in an expedition dossier after contacting us

    Exclusive

    You will receive all information in an expedition dossier after contacting us

    Clothing, technical equipment, miscellaneous

    Detailed list follows per pdf

    Catering
    • Snack (not included, serves to replenish energy levels): This is eaten between breakfast and dinner and taken with you for the appropriate number of days. Dried fruit, chocolate, cheese, wholemeal bread and energy bars are all suitable. Remember that your rucksack should not be too heavy.
    • Full board (included): Out of commitment to animal welfare, we do not offer fish/meat on our tours. Nevertheless, you can of course order what you like best at the local restaurants, be it vegetarian or animal-based. You are also welcome to bring and eat your own food of animal origin at any time.
    Rental material

    Detailed list of rental equipment follows per pdf

    ILLINIZA, COTOPAXI AND CHIMBORAZO ASCENT

    Mountaineering in the ‘Avenida De Los Volcanos’, Ecuador
    Book now

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