Matterhorn Climb
All you need to know for your next Matterhorn climb
History
The Matterhorn is one of the most famous peaks in the Alps and has a long and eventful history. The first documented ascent took place in 1865 and ended tragically with the death of four of the seven participants. This tragedy made the Matterhorn a symbol of dangerous mountaineering.
Over time, the Matterhorn became a popular destination for climbers and tourists. In the early years, many first ascents were attempted from different sides, but it remained a challenge to master the most difficult routes.
The Matterhorn also became the scene of numerous adventures and spectacular rescues. In 1951, a plane crashed near the summit and a rescue team had to search and rescue survivors for eight days in the most difficult conditions.
Today, the Matterhorn is an important part of the Alpine region and a popular destination for mountaineers and tourists. It has become a symbol of the beauty and challenges of the mountains. The Matterhorn is a place that challenges and inspires the human imagination and the will to overcome it.
Ascent of the Matterhorn with Exped Tribe
Guided Tour on Matterhorn
2 days Zermatt
With one of our experienced mountain guides you will climb the landmark of Switzerland!
Climb this shapely pyramid and experience first hand a part of the history of Swiss mountaineering.
Guided Tour on Matterhorn via Lion ridge (italian side)
2 or 3 days, Breuil Cervinia, Italy
This route starts in Breuil Cervinia and takes us past well-known climbing passages such as the Pic Tyndall, the “Lion’s Head” and the “Rocher Des Ecritures”. We will spend the night in the Rifugio Oriondè – Duca degli Abruzzi or in the Carrel hut during the ascent.
Guided traverse of Matterhorn. Lion ridge up (italian side) and Hörnli ridge descent (schwiss side)
2 or 3 days, Breuil Cervinia to Zermatt, Italy
Climb Switzerland’s landmark from Italy to Switzerland with an exciting traverse! We start together in Breuil Cervinia and climb the Matterhorn via the Italian ridge, past the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele and Carrel hut, up to the Italian and later Swiss summit. Finally, we descend via the Hörnli ridge and finish at the Hörnli hut.
Preparation Tour Matterhorn
1 day, Zermatt
An ascent of the Matterhorn is a demanding task. For this reason, we offer new customers a preparatory tour with a mountain guide to determine your standpoint in terms of fitness and ability on the mountain. This tour includes several elements comparable to the ascent of the Matterhorn. So you will know exactly if you are ready for the Zermatt Kings Mountain!
Routes on the Matterhorn
The Matterhorn has several routes that lead to the summit. Each of these routes has its own challenges and difficulties.
The normal route, also known as the Hörnligrat, is the most frequently used route up the Matterhorn. This route starts in Zermatt and leads to the summit via the Hörnligrat. The route is not technically very demanding, but it requires a good physical condition and experience in mountaineering.
The north face is the most demanding route up the Matterhorn. It is suitable only for very experienced climbers and requires excellent physical condition and technique. The route starts in Zermatt and leads through a steep ice wall to the summit.
The Southeast Ridge is a moderately difficult route that starts in Italy and leads to the summit via the border ridge. The route requires technical skills and mountaineering experience, but it is less demanding than the North Face.
The Liongrat route starts in Cervinia and leads to the summit via the Italian ridge. The route requires technical skills and mountaineering experience, and is less demanding than the North Face.
Each of these routes offers unique challenges and experiences and requires different skills and experience. The choice of route depends on the climber’s physical condition, experience, and interests. It is important to carry out careful planning and preparation and always be accompanied by an experienced mountain guide.
Best period for an ascent
The best time to climb the Matterhorn is usually in midsummer, from July to mid-September. During this time, conditions are usually most favorable, as the weather in the Alps is more stable and there is less snow and ice on the mountain.
Equipment for a Matterhorn ascent
For an ascent of the Matterhorn you need a comprehensive and dedicated equipment to be safe and successful. Here are some of the most important pieces of equipment:
- Climbing gear: harness, climbing rope, carabiners, crampons, ice axe and helmet.
- Clothing: Functional clothing that is breathable and wind and waterproof. This includes sturdy pants, insulating jacket, windproof and breathable shell jacket and pants, gloves, hat and sunglasses.
- Mountain boots: via ferrata or mountain boots with stiff soles and good treads.
- Backpack: A roomy and sturdy backpack with enough space for food and equipment.
- Hut sleeping bag: For overnight stays in the hut or bivouac.
- Sunscreen: Sunscreen with a high sun protection factor, lip balm and sunglasses with good UV protection.
- First aid kit: includes bandages, painkillers, blister plasters and other medical items.
It is important to plan carefully and select equipment according to the specific requirements of the selected route and individual skills and experience.
Recommended preparation tours
There are many great mountain tours in the Matterhorn region that climbers can undertake before climbing the Matterhorn to improve their skills and experience. Here are some of the recommended tours:
- Breithorn: Breithorn is a 4,164-meter-high mountain near the Matterhorn. It is a popular destination for ski tourers and also offers a great climb to the top.
- Monte Rosa: Monte Rosa is the highest mountain in Switzerland and offers a variety of routes and levels of difficulty for climbers.
- Weisshorn: Weisshorn is one of the highest mountains in the Alps and offers a challenging and technical climb.
- Castor and Pollux: Castor and Pollux are two peaks near Monte Rosa and offer a great opportunity to practice techniques in ice climbing and glacier walking.
- Gran Paradiso: Gran Paradiso is a 4,061 meter mountain in the Italian Alps and is a popular destination for mountaineers and ski tourers.
These tours offer a great way to prepare for an ascent of the Matterhorn while experiencing the beauty and challenges of the Alps. However, it is important to plan carefully and be accompanied by an experienced mountain guide to ensure safety.
What are you waiting for? Book your next tour with us now and get ready for a unique experience!
Schedule Matterhorn ascent
The tour starts in Zermatt, where you will meet our mountain guide and discuss the route. The route may vary slightly depending on weather conditions and abilities. However, you will usually reach the Hörnlihütte at 3260 m, which serves as an overnight stop and base for the ascent via the Hörnli ridge. After a very short night, the climb begins early in the morning to reach the summit before the onset of afternoon weather. The route up the Matterhorn includes steep climbing sections and exposed ridges. The climb requires excellent physical conditioning, climbing experience and an ability to adapt quickly to changing weather conditions. An experienced Exped Tribe mountain guide will lead you through the route, giving you instructions and motivating you as you climb to the summit. The summit of the Matterhorn offers breathtaking views of the Swiss and Italian Alps, well worth the effort and challenge of the climb. After the summit success, you will be safely brought back to the starting point. Congratulations on your ascent of the Matterhorn!
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