The Ama Dablam is known as the «Matterhorn» of Nepal and counts among the most beautiful mountains in the world. Together we climb this mystical mountain on our demanding and technical expedition trip.
from CHF 8'900.00
The first ascent of the Ama Dablam took place on 13 March 1961 by an expedition under the leadership of Mike Gill, with the participation of Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes. The expedition was a joint effort of New Zealand, the United Kingdom and the USA. This historic ascent helped to classify the Ama Dablam as a demanding and prestigious objective for mountaineers worldwide.
Over the years the Ama Dablam has developed into a symbol of the beauty and challenges of the Himalaya. The local population regards the mountain as sacred and the sight of it has a deeply rooted spiritual meaning. In Sherpa culture the Ama Dablam is regarded as the «abode of the gods».
The mountain rises majestically to 6812 m and is known for its characteristic shape, which is translated as «mother and her necklace».
We start in Lukla and walk slowly up the Dudh Kosi valley. On the way we stay overnight in tea houses and in 2-person tents at base camp. After a few days of walking we reach the small village of Dushanbe, which, idyllicly situated, offers incredible views of the Ama Dablam and all the way to Everest. Here we spend several days acclimatising by climbing neighbouring peaks and considering an ascent of the Lobuche. Finally we walk to the base camp of the Ama Dablam, where our expedition really starts for the first time. For the ascent of the summit we tackle the standard route. This runs over airy passages and exposed climbing up to the summit. Pure climbing pleasure for ambitious high-altitude mountaineers!
Extremely demanding and exposed climbing. Most of the rock sections are in the difficulty grade UIAA 3–4 and must be climbed with crampons «Dry» (with rock contact). Despite continuous fixed ropes, sure-footedness and alpine experience are an absolute must.
Previous experience on further 6000ers obligatory.
Fit for long hikes of up to 10 hrs/day. Fit enough to carry a 14 kg backpack.
Arrival from Zurich or Milan by plane. We are happy to organise an alternative arrival if desired. Once in Kathmandu, we get the last groceries, explore the city and experience how the locals live their everyday lives.
We explore this nice city and can still organise the last pieces of equipment. The area around Thamel, for example, is ideal for getting more equipment. Tomorrow we set off!
After an early start and an early departure from Kathmandu domestic airport, our flight lasts 45 minutes, into the Everest region of Nepal. The landing in Lukla (2800 m) is spectacular and on arrival we are welcomed by our Sirdar (guide) and the trekking team. They organise our luggage before we set off. It is a gentle walk to Phakding (2800 m), another 3 hours to the north. The path leads through Lukla, past hotels, shops and airline offices, to the edge of the Lukla plateau, where the path ends to meet the Jiri trail at Chablung. From here the path follows the Dudh Kosi river northwards, through the village of Ghat and finally to Phakding, where we will spend the night. If we have time and feel fit, we can, if we wish, walk further along the path and go on to Jorsale or Monjo.
From Phakding the path continues northwards along the Dudh Kosi valley and runs 100 m above the river on the west bank. The path takes us to Jorsale (2810 m), where we enter the Sagarmatha National Park and hand in our trekking permits for checking. From here we continue our way on an ever steeper path to Namche Bazaar (3440 m), known simply as Namche. On the way we cross the spectacular suspension bridge high above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the Dudh Kosi and shortly afterwards catch our first view of Everest, far to the north-east. The way to Namche is steep and long, but at last we reach the remarkable Sherpa capital, which sits high on the slopes and is dominated in the east by the mighty massif of the Kwangde (6187 m).
The hike from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche in the Khumbu region is part of the classic Everest Base Camp trek and offers a fascinating combination of mountainous terrain, picturesque villages and spiritual sites. The path first leads us through a dense mountain forest lined with rhododendrons and various other plants. Along the way we come across picturesque villages with traditional stone and wooden houses, embedded in the spectacular mountain scenery. The encounter with the friendly locals, who share their way of life with visitors, gives the hike a special touch.
A highlight of the route is the visit to Tengboche monastery, one of the most important Buddhist monasteries in the region. The majestic location of the monastery offers a panoramic view of the Ama Dablam and other surrounding peaks. The spiritual experience in the midst of this impressive setting is a moving moment.
During today’s stage we leave traditional Sherpa villages such as Pangboche and Somare behind us. The villages are surrounded by terraced fields and offer an insight into the authentic life of the mountain dwellers.
The route to Dingboche also passes some of the most beautiful viewpoints. Among them the famous viewpoint at Pangboche, with a view of our objective, the Ama Dablam. The majestic presence of this mountain will captivate us for the first time.
Dingboche itself lies in a wide valley and is surrounded by rugged mountains. The village is not only an important resting point for trekkers, but also offers a great opportunity for acclimatisation, as it is one of the highest settlements in the region. From here we start a week of acclimatisation and training for the ascent of the Ama Dablam
Dingboche serves us for about a week as a base for training, acclimatisation and for an ascent of the Lobuche as an acclimatisation tour. Together we adapt our training plan to the wishes of the participants, so that we are prepared in the best possible way for an ascent of the Ama Dablam.
In the next 8 day we are on the different base camps and get closer and closer to the summit. Among We come to base camps 1 and 2, climb over the famous «Yellow Tower» and «Grey Tower» up to the «Mushroom Ridge», a mushroom-shaped cornice which leads us to the ridge, which then takes us to the summit. Summit Success!
The last day of our hike, along the path above the Dudh Kosi, before we ascend to Lukla, where we arrive in the early afternoon.
We return to the bustle of Kathmandu, 45-minute flight, back to the domestic airport. There we are met and taken back to the hotel. Arrival times in Kathmandu vary, however it is usual that we should be back in our hotel by the early afternoon.
Transfer from the hotel to the airport, return flight home. See you soon, on a next shared adventure!
The ascent of the Ama Dablam can be seen as physically demanding and requires «advanced» climbing skills. Most of the rock sections are in the difficulty grade UIAA 3-4 and must be climbed with crampons «Dry», that is, with rock contact. The climbing is indeed defused throughout with fixed ropes, but you are constantly in alpine terrain and the necessary sure-footedness and experience are an absolute must on this mountain. We are happy to recommend preparation tours in Switzerland that prepare you for climbing on the Ama Dablam.
If you have questions you are welcome to contact us and we will weigh up together whether the Ama Dablam is the right choice for you.
The length of the Ama Dablam expedition is 26 days in total. We are happy to offer another 5-6 extra days in the area in order to include ascents of Lobuche Est or Island Peak. The time on the Ama Dablam itself is between 8 and 10 days. We consider shorter times for expeditions in Nepal to be of little use and somewhat foolhardy. The necessary altitude adaptation at these altitudes is a must and prevents an ascent from having to be broken off prematurely. For this reason we recommend an appropriate length of stay at altitude and training days before the real ascent.
The best time for an ascent of the Ama Dablam is as a rule during the two main climbing periods, spring and autumn. These specific periods can vary depending on individual preferences, with weather and conditions.
Autumn (September to November): This is the most popular time to climb the Ama Dablam. The weather is stable, visibility is clear and temperatures are not too extreme. During this time there is less precipitation, which improves conditions on the mountain.
Spring (April to mid-June): The spring season is the second-best time for an ascent of the Ama Dablam. The weather is also relatively stable in these months and the days are longer. Temperatures are milder than in winter, but more snow may be found on the routes.
The Ama Dablam is 6812 m high
The Ama Dablam is located in the Khumbu area of the Himalaya in Nepal. More precisely, the mountain lies in the Solu-Khumbu district, which is part of Province N. 1 in Nepal. The Khumbu area is known worldwide and a popular region for trekking and mountaineering expeditions, as it is home to some of the highest peaks in the world, including Mount Everest.
Geographically speaking, the Ama Dablam lies south of Mount Everest and south-west of Lhotse in the Himalaya range. The closest well-known place near the Ama Dablam is the village of Pangboche. Trekkers and mountaineers who are on their way to Everest Base Camp often pass through this area and have the opportunity to see the Ama Dablam from a distance.
