Khan Tengri South Expedition, Kyrgyzstan

Khan Tengri Expedition, Kirgisistan

Khan Tengri differs from many other seven-thousanders through its perfect shape and its unique position in the heart of the Tien Shan.

  • 17/07/2027 – 06/08/2027
  • 21 days
  • Khan Tengri, Kyrgyzstan
  • Min. 2, Max. 8 Personen participants

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from CHF 5'290.00

Davide Guzzardi
Questions? Davide is happy to help
Description

Impressions

Reviews

  • Miao-Miao

    Wieder einmal ein tolles Abenteuer am Fusse des Khan Tengris, leider nicht ganz hoch geschafft durch Krankheit, aber dafür tolle Momente eingefangen und erlebt. An Restdays und Schlechtwettertagen am Gletscher kleine Ausflüge gemacht und einige Techniken in Knoten und Materialkunde nochmal geübt für den großen Tag!
    Haben das Base Camp früher verlassen und dafür im Ala Archa Gebiet Sportklettern und eine tolle Hochtour eingebaut. Von Anfang bis Ende ein unvergessliches Erlebnis! 😍👌 Toll organisiert samt Planänderung! Mit Reiseleitung Davide einiges an Spass und guten Humor integriert 😜!

  • Florian

    Vor einem Jahr haben wir in Peru den Alpamayo gerockt. Einfach spektakulär und von Exped Tribe immer bei guter Laune gehalten. Und nun wieder mal eine klasse Zeit gehabt. Der Khan Tengri mit Nordanstieg, hat mir wahnsinnige Eindrücken und Erlebnissen geschenkt. Danke fürs dabei sein und das Organisieren.

Requirements

Technique

Previous high-altitude mountaineering experience

Experience required.

Fitness

Fitness

Fit for long ascents and for carrying heavy luggage (over 14 kg).

Programme

Your expedition begins in the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek or in Almaty, Kazakhstan. After arrival there is a transfer to the hotel, where you get to know your fellow expedition members over a joint welcome dinner.

Around 460 kilometres lead eastwards, past the mighty Issyk-Kul lake, the second-largest high-mountain lake in the world. The Karkara base camp lies at 2200 metres. In good weather an acclimatisation ascent of Bas Karkara Peak (4059 m) is on the programme.

Tag 2–3: Fahrt nach Karkara und Akklimatisationstag

The helicopter flight to the North or South Inylchek base camp at 4000 metres is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. The base camp has double tents on wooden platforms, kitchen and mess tents, toilets, shower, sauna and a power supply.

Tag 4–6: Flug ins Basislager und Eingewöhnung

Over several stages you undertake your first important acclimatisation ascents – among others on Pik Odinadzati (5437 m), Pik Bayankol (5791 m), Karly Tau (5420 m) and Pik Kazakhstan (5671 m).

Tag 7–14: Akklimatisationsrunden auf 5000ern

The route uses three high camps: camp 1 (4520 m), camp 2 (5500 m) and camp 3 (5950 m). Summit day begins very early, still in the middle of the night, via the west saddle. After a few hours you reach the spot for an optional camp IV at 6400 metres. The summit lies at 7010 metres.

Gipfelanstieg zum Khan Tengri

In the morning there is one last opportunity for a dip in the waves of Issyk-Kul. Afterwards the drive back to the Kyrgyz capital follows (three to four hours).

More info

Info

  • Local mountain guide
  • Overnight stays in local accommodation and expedition tents
  • All local transfers
  • Photos of the trip
  • An activity in support of the local community
  • Group equipment
  • CO₂ offsetting with a tree planted per participant

  • Travel to/from the destination country
  • Mandatory private accident insurance covering repatriation costs
  • Cancellation cost insurance
  • Alcoholic drinks
  • Tips
  • Anything not listed under “Included”

Accommodation

The South Inylchek Base Camp (also known as South Engilchek Base Camp) is located at an elevation of approximately 4,000 m above sea level on the South Inylchek Glacier in the Tian Shan Mountains of Kyrgyzstan, at the confluence with the Zvozdochka Glacier. From here, one can see Khan Tengri (7,010 m) and Jengish Chokusu (7,439 m, formerly Pik Pobeda), the two highest peaks in the Tian Shan. The camp serves as the starting point for ascents of these two mountains as well as other peaks in the surrounding area. The Inylchek Glacier is one of the longest glaciers in the world outside the polar regions.

Zelte im Basislager unter einem Gletscherberg

Clothing / Equipment

Detailed clothing list according to the equipment dossier (provided in the detailed programme).

Detailed list of the technical equipment according to the equipment dossier.

Sleeping equipment according to the equipment dossier (sleeping bag, sleeping mat etc.).

Further items of equipment according to the equipment dossier. Rental gear is available on request.

FAQ

The Khan Tengri season runs from the beginning of July to the end of August, the main season from mid-July to mid-August.

Technically, Khan Tengri is not a very demanding summit, but it places high demands on experience and mountaineering ability. Good physical condition, endurance as well as glacier and ice-climbing techniques are essential.

Worth seeing are, among others, Ala-Too Square, Victory Square, the Osh Bazaar, the Ala Archa National Park and the Issyk-Ata gorge.

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