Anonym
Climbed Muztagh Ata with Skis with Exped Tribe and was very positively surprised by their logistics and organization. Highly recommended!
The Muztagh Ata, with its 7,546 metre summit in the eastern Pamir, is not called the “Father of Ice Mountains” for nothing and is regarded by those in the know as the highest ski tour in the world. We accompany you on this 26-day expedition, which begins in Bishkek and leads you through some of the most spectacular landscapes in Central Asia.
from CHF 6'590.00
The Muztagh Ata lies in the westernmost corner of China, in the autonomous region of Xinjiang, and forms the eastern cornerstone of the legendary Pamir range. Together with other striking peaks such as Kongur Tagh, Pik Lenin and Pik Ismoil Somoni it shapes one of the most impressive mountain landscapes on earth. What makes this mountain special is its accessibility combined with its extreme altitude: technically the Muztagh Ata is one of the easiest 7,000ers in the world, but do not be fooled — the sheer height of over 7,500 metres is a serious challenge that only fit and experienced alpinists can master.
The broad ice dome of the mountain rises majestically above the barren Taklamakan desert and, thanks to its evenly angled flanks, offers ideal conditions for an ascent on touring skis or snowshoes. The moderate slope angles and the low technical difficulty make the summit the perfect training ground for ambitious mountaineers preparing for even higher goals such as the 8,000ers.
After entering China you reach Kashgar, a provincial capital more than 2,000 years old that was once one of the most important trading posts along the legendary Silk Road. Life pulses here in the colourful bazaars and markets, where traders and nomads crowd in with their donkey carts. The city gives you the perfect opportunity to immerse yourself deeply in Central Asian culture before the real mountain adventure begins.
From Kashgar we continue on the well-built Karakoram Highway through the Chinese Pamir. Before long the first snow-covered 6,000ers and 7,000ers appear on the horizon. An important stop comes at the beautifully situated Karakol Lake at around 3,600 metres. In good weather the mighty Muztagh Ata is reflected in the turquoise waters of the lake, a sight that will take your breath away and at the same time make clear the scale of the adventure ahead of you.
What makes this expedition so special is the professional organisation with systematic acclimatisation, which clearly increases your chances of the summit. Before we make the final summit push we undertake several carefully planned acclimatisation tours. These outings take us step by step to greater altitudes and prepare our bodies optimally for the extreme conditions awaiting us on summit day. Each tour not only brings us closer to our goal but also reveals the breathtaking beauty of the Caucasian mountains.
Anonym
Climbed Muztagh Ata with Skis with Exped Tribe and was very positively surprised by their logistics and organization. Highly recommended!
Experience required. Further ascents above 6,000 m with an alpine component are assumed. Skiing on all snow types and slope angles.
Fitness for long ascents of up to 2,000 vertical metres per day.
Your expedition begins in the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek or directly in Chinese Kashgar, in the Xinjiang region. After your arrival a transfer to the hotel awaits you, where you get to know your fellow expedition members over a joint welcome dinner. Use the time for last-minute shopping and a stroll through the city — Ala-Too Square and the lively bazaars already give you a taste of the Central Asian flair that will stay with you over the coming weeks. Transfer to Kashgar and start of the expedition
After entering China you reach Kashgar, a provincial capital more than 2,000 years old that was once one of the most important trading posts along the legendary Silk Road. Life pulses here in the colourful bazaars and markets, where traders and nomads crowd in with their donkey carts. The city gives you the perfect opportunity to immerse yourself deeply in Central Asian culture before the real mountain adventure begins.
From Kashgar we continue on the well-built Karakoram Highway through the Chinese Pamir. Before long the first snow-covered 6,000ers and 7,000ers appear on the horizon. An important stop comes at the beautifully situated Karakol Lake at around 3,600 metres. In good weather the mighty Muztagh Ata is reflected in the turquoise waters of the lake, a sight that will take your breath away and at the same time make clear the scale of the adventure ahead of you.
Base camp at 4,450 metres is your starting point for the next twenty days on the mountain. Depending on conditions, you travel there by vehicle or in a traditional caravan with camels carrying your luggage and the mountain equipment. This authentic experience lets you dip into the world of the historic trading caravans and prepares you mentally for the adventure to come.
We have allowed plenty of time for your expedition to ensure optimal altitude acclimatisation. With 20 days on the mountain you have genuine reserves to sit out changes in the weather and to make several summit attempts. The acclimatisation phase is decisive for your success and your safety at extreme altitude. During this time we build up the three high camps together. Teamwork is called for, because only through mutual support can we reach our goals. Three strategically placed high camps form the basis for our summit ascent.
We set up the first high camp at around 5,400 metres, where we already reach the zone of permanent snow. Up to this point local high-altitude porters help you carry the equipment. The second high camp at 6,400 metres is already considerably higher and requires good acclimatisation. The third and highest camp at 6,900 metres serves as the final starting point for the summit push.
The route between the camps leads us across broad glacier surfaces and through individual crevasse zones, which can nonetheless be managed well with careful route choice. The gentle slopes greatly reduce the avalanche danger, which makes the Muztagh Ata an objectively very safe mountain. Even so, you must not underestimate the scale of the mountain — the flattening summit area can make orientation difficult, and in fog or storm the sprawling summit plateau quickly becomes a dangerous trap.
Two buffer days, should the weather not be on our side or should more acclimatisation be needed.
Journey back to Kashgar and Bishkek The long summit descent takes around 4-5 hours and runs over several thousand metres. An extremely long descent with wonderful views! Slowly we make our way back to base camp and then on to Kashgar and Bishkek. In the morning you have one last chance for a dip in the waves of Issyk Kul. Then we drive back to the Kyrgyz capital. In the evening we celebrate the successful expedition together over a farewell dinner in a traditional restaurant.
A detailed list follows in a Pdf dossier
Our expeditions take place between June and August, and in our long experience the dates between mid-July and mid-August have proved ideal. The weather is relatively stable during this period, with little precipitation. Temperatures at base camp are pleasant during the day but can drop below freezing at night. At the high camps you have to reckon with temperatures of minus twenty degrees and lower, and on the summit wind and cold can be extreme.
The continental climate of the Pamir makes for dry conditions, which favours the snow situation. Even so, changes in the weather can arrive quickly and unexpectedly. Storms can reduce visibility to zero and make a summit attempt impossible. That is exactly why we have built in reserve days, so that you keep realistic chances of the summit even during a spell of bad weather.
An expedition to the Muztagh Ata is no stroll in the park. The extreme altitude of 7,546 metres and the prevailing climatic conditions, with low temperatures, strong wind and rapidly changing weather, make this climb a serious undertaking. You need above-average fitness, excellent health and experience in high-altitude mountaineering. Self-reliance and the ability to work as a team matter just as much as mental strength, so that you can get through the difficult moments too.
We recommend preparing specifically for this expedition. Tailor-made preparation courses in the Alps can help you build the necessary confidence and develop important skills. The right equipment is decisive — alongside high-quality mountaineering gear you need special high-altitude boots, a warm down sleeping bag and clothing for extreme cold.
We accompany you through the entire preparation for this expedition with our mountain guides and with targeted preparatory tours and courses. Do get in touch if you have any questions.
Running an expedition to the Muztagh Ata calls for precise planning and organisation. Because of the permits and authorisations required from the Chinese authorities, early registration is necessary, at the latest three months before the expedition begins. Later bookings may no longer be able to be processed, as the Chinese authorities limit the number of expeditions.
We take care of the entire logistics on site, from transport and setting up base camp through to catering during the expedition. Our team of local helpers, cooks and high-altitude porters makes sure you can concentrate fully on your goal. At base camp comfortable accommodation and balanced meals await you, matched to your increased energy needs at altitude.
Meeting the nomadic peoples of the Pamir is a special aspect of our expedition. You experience their traditional way of life in the yurts, their hospitality and their deep connection to the mountains. These cultural encounters enrich your journey and give you an insight into a world that has barely changed over the centuries.
On our expeditions we place great value on sustainability and respect for the local culture. We work together with local partners and make sure that the local population benefits from our activities. We protect the fragile ecosystem of the high mountain region through consistent waste management and a conscious approach to resources.
Yes! We also offer this expedition as a classic high-altitude ascent, as well as a splitboard or snowshoe tour. You are welcome to get in touch about this via the contact form.
