Pik Lenin Expedition, Kyrgyzstan, 7,134 m

Flight to Bishkek: our adventure begins with the flight to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Bishkek lies at around 800 metres and even from here offers a breathtaking view of the snow-capped peaks of the Tien Shan range – an impressive opening to our journey. Over dinner together at the hotel we get to know each other and tune in to the expedition ahead. Domestic flight to Osh and transfer to Achik Tash base camp. After breakfast we fly to southern Kyrgyzstan, to Osh (around 1,000 m), on the border with Uzbekistan. Here we are greeted by a population largely of Mongol descent. After a short transfer to the hotel we visit the bazaar in the afternoon, famous beyond the borders of Kyrgyzstan. At the market we make our final purchases for the expedition. We spend the evening in a cosy restaurant in the city park before spending the night at the hotel.

Domestic flight to Osh and transfer to Achik Tash base camp: after breakfast we fly to southern Kyrgyzstan, to Osh (around 1,000 m), on the border with Uzbekistan. Here we are greeted by a population largely of Mongol descent. After a short transfer to the hotel we visit the bazaar in the afternoon, famous beyond the borders of Kyrgyzstan. At the market we make our final purchases for the expedition. We spend the evening in a cosy restaurant in the city park before spending the night at the hotel.

In off-road vehicles we travel along the Pamir Highway over two passes into the impressive Alai plateau (230 km, 6-7 hours’ drive). Along the way several rivers have to be forded. In doing so we catch sight of the entire Pamir range in all its splendour for the first time. At Sary Tash a bumpy gravel track branches off towards base camp, and now the 7,000-metre Pik Lenin also comes into view for the first time. Thoroughly shaken about, after another three hours across rough terrain we reach the Achik Tash base camp at 3,700 metres. In the privately run facility we take either one of the spacious twin tents, which stand on the green alpine meadows throughout the season, or our own separate single sleeping tent. A mess tent, toilet and kitchen tents are part of the set-up, as are a generator, a telephone and a Russian sauna. We settle in and enjoy our first tasty dinner prepared by the local crew. In total we now have 19 days available for the ascent of Pik Lenin.

Acclimatisation at base camp: time to settle in and slowly get used to the altitude. Today is devoted entirely to acclimatisation. A short walk to a waterfall near the camp or up one of the surrounding hills rounds off the day. As we go we already study the ascent route on Pik Lenin and feel anticipation, but also respect, rising within us. We spend the evening back at base camp, where we continue to acclimatise.

Acclimatisation tour on the surrounding summits: today we climb one of the surrounding viewpoint mountains to 4,200 metres. The view of Pik Lenin builds the anticipation further. During this tour we learn more about the mountain’s eventful history: it was discovered in 1871 and named after the Russian governor general von Kaufmann. In 1928 a German-Soviet expedition led by Willi Rickmer Rickmers succeeded in reaching the summit for the first time. That same year the mountain was renamed Pik Lenin. The current name, Pik Abuali Ibni Sino, was established in 2006 by the Tajik government. After this valuable acclimatisation tour we return to base camp and prepare for the ascent to advanced base camp.

Ascent to advanced base camp (ABC): today the climb to the advanced base camp of Pik Lenin begins. After breakfast we load the heavy baggage onto horses or pack animals and leave the camp. Our vehicle takes us a little further up to the so-called “onion meadow” (Lukovaya Polyana), from where the long march on foot begins. Pik Lenin draws ever closer as fat marmots accompany us along the moraine slopes up to the Mehlpass at around 4,100 metres. After a first, fairly steep slope we reach a pass and catch sight of our objective at full size for the first time. The river crossing along the way can be exciting once again depending on the water level, before we can make out the ABC in the distance at around 4,400 metres. In the afternoon we settle into the ABC and relax for the rest of the day. The ABC has a number of advantages: an exclusive communal yurt, showers, a sauna and spacious tents with solid floors and thick, comfortable mattresses – all of which create the best possible conditions.

The following 15 days are available to us for the ascent of the summit. Alongside a stable general weather situation, flexible tactics are decisive for a successful ascent. On the weather front we receive a daily update from the forecasters.

The route in detail: the route across the flat Lenin glacier to camp 1 at 5,450 to 5,600 metres is long, but in terms of technical difficulty it can largely be walked without a rope. Only in the upper crevasse zones is a rope required. Once a crevasse zone has been crossed, we reach a large glacier plateau. At the actual camp 1, where the majority of expeditions pitch their tents, we climb a little higher over a final firn slope and set up our camp on a ridge. This has the advantage that we are almost entirely to ourselves and are not exposed to the dangerous icefall from the north face of Pik Lenin. From camp 1 there is a short, technically easy climb to camp 2 at 6,100 to 6,130 metres. The onward route is somewhat more technical – first over a short but steep slope and then across broad firn slopes. The camp lies beneath Razdelnaya, a subsidiary summit of Pik Lenin. From here it is not far to the 6,148 to 6,150 metre Razdelnaya, which we will certainly also climb. Here we are already rewarded for the first time for our efforts, as the view stretches as far as two further 7,000-metre peaks, Pik Kommunizma and Pik Korzhenevskaya.

The acclimatisation rotations: following the tried and tested motto “go high, sleep low”, we slowly increase the altitude on the mountain. The stages up to camp 2 are undertaken several times, but only as often as necessary to adapt optimally to the altitude. After a night at camp 2 at 6,100 metres we descend once more to the ABC to recover. We are supported by high-altitude porters who help with transporting the equipment. In between we recover in the comfortable ABC and even treat ourselves to a sauna there. It is precisely during these days that we greatly appreciate the comforts of the exclusive yurt tent and the rest of the facilities.

Summit day: now only the final stage remains. The weather window must now fit. Well rested and refreshed, we climb to the summit over four day stages. From camp 2 the summit stage begins early in the morning with a short descent into a col. We then continue over a broad ridge and wide firn slopes, alternating with short scree sections depending on conditions, some 1,000 metres of ascent up to the “Sickle”, the actual crux of the summit stage. We climb on over gently angled flanks, interrupted by short steps, to the apparent summit. Sadly, however, this is a deception. After roughly another 30 minutes we finally reach the main summit of Pik Lenin, complete with its bust of Lenin. The altimeter should now read 7,134 metres – only then are we standing on the “Snow Leopard” and can look into the face of the Lenin statue. All around, the giants of the Pamir range pile up; the view stretches from the 7,495-metre Pik Kommunizma to the 7,546-metre Mustagh Ata in China and awakens new summit dreams. The view from the top is unforgettable. We do not linger too long on the summit, as the descent is long as well (around 1,900 metres of descent and 14 hours in total). The aim is to descend as far as possible and to spend the night – if feasible – at camp 1. The following day we descend to the ABC, always in the knowledge of having achieved a great objective.

Return journey to Kashgar and Bishkek:

On the descent back to the Achik Tash base camp we enjoy the view of our mountain one last time. We are spoiled by the kitchen crew one final time before we leave the mountains after 20 days in total and drive back to Osh. Osh, the second-largest city in Kyrgyzstan, looks back on a history of more than 3,000 years. Its sights include the Rabat Abdul Khan mosque, the great bazaar and Suleiman Mountain (UNESCO World Heritage Site). Here we move back into the hotel we already know and enjoy the benefits of civilisation. Over a fine dinner in a restaurant we bring our expedition to a close. If the expedition has gone well, there is also another chance here to buy souvenirs for home or to enjoy the life of this bustling city.

Reserve day and flight to Bishkek: well rested, we pay another visit to the lively bazaar and see the historic sites of Osh. Depending on the flight schedule, the domestic flight to Bishkek takes place, where we spend the night in a hotel. We have time to let our experiences sink in and process our impressions. This reserve day also provides a buffer for any delays during the expedition.

Return flight home: early in the morning, after breakfast, the transfer to the airport takes place. If the flight was booked through the operator, this is already arranged; with an individual flight booking we organise the journey ourselves. The return flight to Munich or Frankfurt brings us back home, where we expect to arrive around midday – with unforgettable memories of our adventure on the roof of the Pamir in our luggage and the pride of having conquered a 7,000-metre peak. Slowly we return to base camp and then on to Kashgar and Bishkek. In the morning you have one last opportunity for a dip in the waves of Issyk Kul. Then we drive back to the Kyrgyz capital. In the evening we celebrate the successful expedition together over a farewell dinner in a traditional restaurant.