A view of the crux from the south ridge
Salbitschijen: climbing the most beautiful ridge of the Alps
Inhalte
Peak: Salbitschijen, Uri
Height: 2985 m
Difficulty: 6a, (5c obl.)
Protections: Ok (alpine)
Material: 50 m single rope or half ropes, 10 quickdraws
Mobile protections: Friends can be used and carried additionally
Length: 18 pitches, ca. 500 m. With start on the route “Takala” +4 pitches, for a total of ca. 760 m
Exposition/Rock type: S/Granit
Character: Alpine climbing, ridge climbing
Height Access: ca. 2580 m (with Takala ca. 200 m lower)
Deep views over the south ridge, far to the Salbit bridge and down into the Voralp valley. Heavenly!
This tour in 3 words: SIMPLY INCREDIBLY AWESOME!
Perfect for: A fast & light tour with a guaranteed alpine start that challenges the overall mountaineer. The long approach, climbing at altitude and descent require some time and stamina. One of the most beautiful tours in the always beautiful canton of Uri! Most mountaineers start the tour the day before, with an ascent to the Salbithütte or the spartan Salbitbiwak.
Start: Partkplatz Ulmi (1195 m), Ascent to the Salbithütte in 2:30 hours
A short video of the Fast&Light tour on the Salbit south ridge with Takala access
Approach and descent
Approach: From the Ulmi parking lot, follow the direct path on foot to the Sustenhütte in 2:30 hours. Then follow the markings to the start. The south ridge and Takala have a small metal plaque with a name at the start.
Descent: After the summit needle, abseil down the north-facing couloir for approx. 20 m. Then continue on foot, partly secured with fixed ropes, red markings here and there. Watch out for the formation of the torrent in the couloir and for snow and ice! Depending on the season, ice axes or mountain boots may be an advantage. Alternatively, there are several escape routes on the route (not entirely obvious). On reaching the Salbithütte, return via the same route as the ascent.
The third pitch of Takala is slowly getting steep. But it is super grippy!
The very “photogenic” Salbit needle…
Abseiling from the first tower (approx. 15 m).
Salbit: A dream in the best granite…
Salbit South Ridge Tour with mountain guide
If you would like to tackle this tour with one of our experienced mountain guides, please send us a message or browse through our range of guided climbing tours and adventures. Climb on!
Exped Tribe Team
Paul on the free-standing Salbit needle. The last pitch of the ascent: Airy, beautiful and with a good grip!