PERU Alpamayo and Huascaran Expedition

Trip type: High altitude mountaineering
Duration: 22 days
Height: 5947 m and 6768 m
Country/Region: Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Price: 5’290.00 CHF/p.P.
Participants: 2-6
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or on request

The Alpamayo and the Huascarán are two impressive mountains in the Cordillera Blanca known as the “Most beautiful mountain in the world” and “Highest mountain in South America”. Together we will climb these two natural wonders via the French Route or the Ferrari Route and experience a joint expedition of the extra class!

Requirements:

alpamayo zeichnung

Ascent

Schwierigkeit 5 5 2 1

Extremely strenuous

Wild Camping

Schwierigkeit 5 5 2 1

Experience necessary

Adaptability

Schwierigkeit 5 5 2 1

Necessary. Adventurers are needed here!

Fitness
Schwierigkeit 5 5 2 1

High fitness level necessary

Alpamayo and Huascaran Ascent – your expedition on two of the worlds most beautiful peaks

The Alpamayo and the Huascarán are two impressive mountains in the Cordillera Blanca, a mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. Both peaks attract climbers and nature enthusiasts from all over the world.

About the Alpamayo: It is often called the “most beautiful mountain in the world” and translated from Quechua its name means “murky water”. Alpamayo is recognized and praised worldwide for its elegant pyramid shape and breathtaking beauty. It reaches an altitude of about 5947 meters and is a challenging climb due to the technical difficulties and ice climbing passages. The route we choose is known as the “French Route”, and will definitely test your ice climbing skills.

The history of Alpamayo ascents goes back a long way: it was first admired by the indigenous Quechua and Anas peoples of Peru and noticed by European explorers and discoverers in the 19th century. The first ascents of Alpamayo date back to the early 1950s, but were hardly successful. It was not until 1957 that an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin was able to reach the summit. In 1966, the Alpamayo was recognized by UNESCO as the “most beautiful mountain peak in the world”, especially after the successful ascent via the route known as the “French Route”, which we also offer here.

About the Huascarán: It is the highest mountain in Peru and all of South America, with an altitude of 6768 meters. It is divided into two main peaks: Huascarán Sur (south) and Huascarán Norte (north). The region around Huascarán is part of the Huascarán National Park, which has a remarkable biodiversity and has been declared a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. The name “Huascarán” is derived from the Quechua language and has historical significance. Huáscar was an Inca emperor, and “ran” means “house.” Therefore, Huascarán can be translated as “house of Huáscar.” Although Huascarán is technically classified as somewhat “easier” than its neighbor Alpamayo, it is a challenging and not to be underestimated climb due to the greater altitude to its spiky neighbor.

Together on the Alpamayo and Huascaran

The Alpamayo and Huscaran rise majestically in the Cordillera Blanca and with their shapes and height are among the most beautiful peaks in the world. As the “most beautiful” mountain on earth and the “highest” mountain in South America, they exert a strong attraction on adventurers and mountaineers from all over the world. Ready to join us on this unique expedition trip?

Your benefits with Exped Tribe:

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Local and multilingual mountain guide

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Support member

who will document the trip with professional recordings and look after your well-being. You will receive drone videos, photos and much more as a souvenir of your adventure.

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Small groups

of max. 6 participants. Increased flexibility, familiar atmosphere and harmonious get-together. We do our best to ensure that all participants have an incredible adventure! We conduct expectation phone calls and pool participants who have similar expectations and abilities. We are happy to accept special requests!

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Vegetarian friendly

We offer Alpine gourmet cuisine, completely without meat/fish!

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Co2 compensation

Planting of several trees per participant. You will receive a certificate of your trees and will be able to follow their growth.

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Rental materials

Cost-effective rental materials such as sleeping bags, climbing equipment and much more are available.

Alpamayo Expedition

Planned itinerary of the Alpamayo and Huascaran climb

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Day 1

Peru, here we come!

Arrival from Zurich or Milan by plane. We can arrange an alternative arrival if desired. Arrival to the city of Lima (11 million inhabitants!).

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 2

Drive to Huaran (3060 m)

The bus tour promises a diverse and exciting experience. Initially, the route takes us along the “Panamericana” through the impressive desert landscape on the Pacific coast. Then we head up into the highlands, over the Conococha Pass, which reaches an altitude of 4,020 meters, and finally down into the valley of Santa in the Cordillera Negra, which leads us to Huaraz – the mountaineering capital. As soon as we cross the pass, a breathtaking view of the Cordillera Blanca opens up before us – undoubtedly one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes in the world. Alternatively, a domestic flight can be booked to shorten the journey.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 3

Trekking Wilcacocha

To prepare ourselves optimally for the altitude, we explore the Cordillera Negra. From this vantage point we enjoy a breathtaking view of the Cordillera Blanca. From the Wilcacocha lagoon we have an excellent view of the mountain range to the north, which includes Huandoy, Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Vallunaraju, Copa, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca and many other mountains. To the south we catch sight of the imposing Caullaraju.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 4

Trekking Laguna Churup

We drive from Huaraz to Pitec (3,850 meters) passing through the traditional villages of Unchus and Llupa. After entering the National Park, we begin the ascent by following the trail along a long ridge. The last 100 meters to the lake require climbing over a steep rocky gorge. Return to Huaraz.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 5

Huaraz to the Santa Cruz valley

Off to the Alpamayo! We drive through the Santa Cruz Valley to Cashapampa (3,050 meters). Here we meet our muleteers and load our luggage. On the Santa Cruz Trek we hike to the first campsite, Ichicoccha (3,900 meters). Here we spend the first night at the campsite.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 6

From the Santa Cruz valley to the Alpamayo Base Camp

After breakfast we leave our camp and continue our trek in the valley. On the way we pass Laguna Jatuncocha and then leave the Santa Cruz Trek. A side valley leads to the base camp of Alpamayo, crossing the Punta Union Pass. There we prepare for the ascent and spend the night at a base camp at 4,200 meters.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 7

From the Base Camp to the Moraine Camp on 4900 m

From now on we have to carry our personal equipment ourselves and make use of the porters. In two stages we bring all the material to the moraine camp and at the same time adapt to the altitude.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 8

Moraine Camp to the High Camp on 5300 m

The ascent to the high camp of Alpamayo is made via the nearby glacier. We set up our high camp with the best view of Alpamayo (see picture). We prepare our equipment and go to sleep early.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 9

Alpamayo ascent day

Already in the night we start the ascent to the summit of the 5.947 meters high Alpamayo. In our ascent we choose the French Direct route or the Ferrari route, depending on the conditions. We start with a slope angle of 45 degrees and continue to climb up to 55-60 degrees. A short passage with about 70 degrees of inclination in the uppermost area represents the main difficulty. Over a narrow ridge we reach the main summit.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 10

Alpamayo Puffer-day or Quitaraju ascent (6040 m)

This day is available as an additional day for Alpamayo. Alternatively, the neighboring Quitaraju can be climbed via its steep north face with an angle of inclination of 55 degrees without fixed rope support. If possible, we will descend to base camp at 4,200 meters.

Alpamayo Sketch

Day 11

Return to Huaraz

We hike back to Cashapampa (3,050 m) along the Santa Cruz Valley. Our private transport will take us back to the hotel in Huaraz in another 2 hours, where we can recover from the successful climb.

huascaran

Day 12

Rest day in Huaraz

Relax! We take this day to recover from the exertions of the previous days. We also prepare for the ascent of Huascaran.

huascaran

Day 13

Huaraz to Musho and to the  Huascaran Base Camp

Today we start climbing the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. In the morning we drive from Huaraz through the Huaylas valley via Mancos to Musho, about 60 km away (3,030 m). Here we load the luggage onto the donkeys. We climb in serpentines past the Huascarán hut to about 4,400m, where we set up our tent camp.

huascaran

Day 14-19

Huascaran climbing period

We have 5 days to climb the Garganta route, setting up two high camps at about 5,100 meters and 5,900 meters. The stage to the summit starts again very early at night. Depending on the conditions, we leave around 2:00 am to reach either the south or north summit. First the ascent leads to the plateau. Here the trail branches off to the shorter north or south peaks. We reach the main summit of Huascarán through a veritable maze of crevasses. Some steep sections are secured with fixed ropes. Since the ascent depends heavily on the ice conditions on the mountain, it may be necessary to switch to alternative summits such as Chopicalqui (6,354 m).

huascaran

Day 20

Huascaran Puffer day

Another extra day is available for the ascent of Huascarán. If this is not needed, we will return to Huaraz today

huascaran

Day 21

Return trip to Lima, city sightseeing

We undertake the return journey by bus to Lima and visit the city.

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Last day

See you soon, Peru!

Transfer from the hotel to the airport, return flight home. See you soon, to a next adventure together!

Important info about your Alpamayo and Huascaran expedition

Clothing, technical equipment, miscellaneous

Detailed list follows by pdf

Included

You will receive all information after contacting us in an expedition dossier

Excluded

You will receive all information after contacting us in an expedition dossier

Catering
  • Snack (not included, serves to replenish the energy balance): This is taken between breakfast and dinner and is carried for an appropriate number of days. Dried fruit, chocolate, cheese, wholemeal bread and energy bars are good choices. Remember not to make your backpack too heavy.
  • Full board (included): Out of commitment to animal welfare, we do not offer fish/meat on our tours. Nevertheless, you can of course order what you like best at the local restaurants, be it vegetarian or animal origin. You are also welcome to bring and eat your food of animal origin at any time.
Rental material

Detailed list of rental equipment follows per pdf

ALPAMAYO and HUASCARAN EXPEDITION

Climb two of the most beautiful peaks of the Cordillera Blanca
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